MY “fantastique” JAUNT BEYOND PARIS
By Steve Lassman, Vice President & General Manager
Although the City of Lights is unquestionably the cultural and historical hub of France, in my eyes the countryside and Riviera outshine Paris when it comes to charm and natural beauty. Whether you’ve never been to France or have only seen the capital and bustling Cote D’Azur ports like Marseille, the provinces are a great option for a relaxing home from which to go exploring and can paint a more illuminating picture of the uniquely French culture. On the first day of our most recent trip to exceptional villas across the country, my team and I discovered two things – high-speed trains will save you time but cost you countless experiences, and it’ll never be too soon to return to this enchanting land.
We arrived in Paris and headed to the train terminal for a swift TGV ride to Avignon. Despite traveling at speeds up to 200 mph, the journey was surprisingly smooth and slow enough to enjoy gazing at some lovely passing scenery. The TGV is definitely a thrill and an enormous convenience when time is short, but once we arrived in Avignon and picked up our rental car it became clear that a slower pace can be more rewarding. Our drive to Coustellet only lasted about 35 to 40 minutes, but we saw a lot more than on our train ride, and that provided a nice distraction from our growing appetites. Coustellet is very quaint in size, but this is France – so thankfully, even the smallest towns have a few bakeries. We visited two, and I am hard-pressed to tell you which one was better; they were both amazing, offering every imaginable type of pastry and baguette.
Satiated by our authentic petit dejeuner, we arrived at our first villa, Le Grand Jas. It is extremely easy to find, right off the main road outside the town of Coustellet – ideally located just minutes from Gordes, Goult, LaCoste, and my personal favorite, L'Isle sur la Sorgue. The villa is built in the classic Provencal style, with thick stone walls and a southern exposure that takes advantage of the long sunny days of summer. The house features sophisticated décor, antiques, and five beautifully appointed, air-conditioned bedrooms with en suite baths. Flower gardens and olive trees surround an infinity pool and a terrace ideal for al fresco dining. This quiet countryside villa is perfect for couples or a family looking for a great location at a very reasonable price.
With a few hours of daylight left, we decided to venture into Gordes, a breathtaking hilltop village where many movie stars and acclaimed artists have made their homes. Its gorgeous architecture and elevation make for the most amazing views, so have your cameras ready. If sampling regional cuisine and shopping are on your agenda, this is a good place to start; there are many wonderful restaurants and boutiques along the winding, arcaded, medieval lanes. Gordes has been listed as one of the most beautiful villages of France, and you will certainly see why.
As the sun rose on Sunday morning, we prepared to spend the day in L'Isle sur la Sorgue. Crisscrossed with lazy canals, moss-covered waterwheels, and mills for wool and paper, this amazing village still thrives despite having long lost its claim as the center of the Provencal silk trade. The charming valley town maintains a laid-back vibe, except on Sundays when it transforms into a bustling open-air market. Many have said this is the third largest antique market in all of Europe, but there’s more in store than just treasured relics. The streets fill with vendors selling anything your heart desires, from French clothing and linens to fresh fruits, cheeses, and vegetables. If you want to just sit and take in the crowds and strolling musicians, there are miles of sidewalk cafés from which to whet your appetite for people watching. We started the morning at the Patissier Createur; if I were a betting man, I’d wager they pump the aroma of freshly baked croissants into the street. This eatery comes highly recommended – we sipped tea and coffee while savoring some of the best croissants and pastries you could imagine. After sauntering through the market, nibbling on homemade goods, and picking up some great finds, we settled in for dinner at a nice spot along the river called Rose D'Asie. The ambience was sublime, the food was delectable, and the wine exactly what you would expect. It was the idyllic ending to a “fantastique” day in L'Isle sur la Sorgue.
A few other countryside villas I recommend after having the privilege of visiting them on this unforgettable French sortie:
La Belle Combe is an incredibly restored, 17th-century farmhouse in the Luberon Valley. Set just five minutes from the village of Gordes, this seven-bedroom (most with A/C), five-bath house is absolutely flawless in every respect. Whether you are sitting on the large patio overlooking the vineyards, playing tennis on the villa’s court, or swimming in the large heated pool, this haven has something for everyone and is a perfect spot for families.
La Vigne Vierge is one of our newest additions with a prime setting in the village of Gordes. This multi-level home boasts the most spectacular views of Luberon from each floor. Rustic styling artfully embellishes the five bedrooms, five baths, living room, dining room, and quaint kitchen of this private hideaway. Unique amenities include a great game room and a wine cellar. Its dramatic location and charms are best suited for adventurous families with older children and active couples.
Domaine Laurentine, a magnificent estate in the heart of the Luberon Valley just between the villages of Lacoste and Bonnieux, is an absolute dream come true. This seven-bedroom oasis is nestled on two acres of immaculately landscaped gardens with lavender fields and vineyards. The main home, a converted farmhouse, has four bedrooms and enough state-of-the-art accoutermentsthat you may never want to leave. Every single area of this luxurious retreat was masterfully crafted with guests' comfort always in mind. Crowning this one-of-a-kind estate is a completely restored 12th-century chapel. With seating for 20 guests, it is the ideal spot for a small wedding or a reception. Domaine Laurentine will absolutely exceed your expectations.
There are dozens of other unbelievable French villas and countless other attractions in other regions, but there’s only so much time, of course, and racing around trying to see everything on some giant checklist isn’t my style. For me, the journey itself is more rewarding than the number of destinations. Besides, it leaves some mystique, and that gives me all the more reason to return... Naturally, I can’t wait to go back to France!
